Paul Poiret's Fancy Dress Costumes

My friends and I had our Halloween masquerade on Saturday. And while I am waiting for some pictures to come my way so I could share them here, let me direct your attention to some more vintage Halloween ideas.    

If you still don't know what to be this Halloween, let Paul Poiret inspire you with his amazing fancy dresses. Some say that Paul Poiret was the first fashion designer, though I believe that distinction should go to Rose Bertin, milliner to Marie Antoinette and the “Minister of Fashion”. Poiret, though not the first fashion designer, was certainly an artist of fashion. Just look at some of these breathtaking costumes he designed.

 'Oriental' Costume

Oriental fancy dress costume, Paul Poiret, 1911. Source: Met Museum

This fancy dress ensemble was created for Poiret's 1002nd Night party in 1911. I absolute love the silhouette and the gems.

'Elizabethan' Costume

Elizabethan fancy dress costume, Paul Poiret, 1910-1920. Source: Met Museum

The gown is clearly inspired by Queen Elizabeth fashions, yet it does not strive for absolute historical accuracy. It is cream colored silk, trimmed and embroidered with metallic thread and synthetic gems.  

'Fountain' Costume

Fountain fancy dress costume, Paul Poiret, 1920s  

And last but not least, my favorite of all Poiret's fancy dresses. This Fountain costume was worn by Marchesa Luisa Casati, an Italian heiress and, by her own account, 'a living work of art'. The dress is so simple in its eccentricity. I love the elaborate two-storey hat and strings of large beads streaming down the body and the hoop skirt.

Of these three, which one would you wear to a Halloween party?  

Dress of the Week: Court Dress

It is Friday night and I'm all dressed up and nowhere to go. And nothing says 'party' quite like an early-Victorian silk court dress.

Court dress, 1828, Germany. Source: Met Museum

Court dress, back, 1828, Germany. Source: Met Museum

Court dress,  bodice detail, 1828, Germany. Source: Met Museum 

Court dress, skirt detail, 1828, Germany. Source: Met Museum 

Date: 1828
Culture: German (probably)
Medium: silk, metal
Dimensions: Length at CB: 52 in. (132.1 cm) 

As Regency fashion for antiquity-inspired simple white garments began to wane, the early-Victorians developed a taste for lower waists, more bell-shaped skirts and much poofier sleeves, which ultimately resulted in leg o'mutton sleeve fashion, which I am sure people in the early 20th century regarded with as much horror as we do our own '90s.

While I do not much care for early-Victorian style (I think those huge sleeves make one's head look disproportionately tiny), I adore the metal embroidery on the skirt, sleeves and bodice. It makes me think of a dress of a fairy tale princess. It would be great fun to cosplay as Snow White in this lovely gown.

Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art 

Dress of the Day: Elizabethan Costume

My theater group is putting on a production of Shakespeare in the Park, so this week I felt like a bit of whimsical costuming is in order. And since in Shakespearean theater all actors, regardless of the play's period, wore contemporary dress, here is a lovely Elizabethan costume.

Fancy Dress,  1890–1909, French. Source: Met Museum 

Fancy Dress, back, 1890–1909, French. Source: Met Museum 

Fancy Dress,  detail, 1890–1909, French. Source: Met Museum 

Date: 1890–1909
Culture: French
Medium: silk, metal
Dimensions: Length (a): 18 in. (45.7 cm) Length (b): 74 in. (188 cm)
Credit Line: Gift of Orme Wilson and R. Thornton Wilson, in memory of their mother, Mrs. Caroline Schermerhorn Astor Wilson

Sadly, this is not a real Elizabethan dress. Historical clothes is very difficult to find and preserve since they age, wear out, lose color and are altered by their owners. There are very few real pieces left from 16th to17th century. We must content ourselves with imitations, reconstructions, and of course, wonderful peices created in other periods for fancy dress balls and masquerades.

This is a beautiful dark plum silk velvet gown decorated with faux pearls and embroidered with gold metallic thread. I especially love the lines of pearls sewn along the sleeves. The dress follows the late 19th century silhouette, but borrows elements from Elizabethan gowns, like the wide sleeves and the ruff collar. Costume balls were all the rage at the end of the 19th century. They were not just fun, but also educational. Guests were encouraged not only to research dressmaking of their character's time period, but also learn as much about the character as they could and portray him or her as accurately as possible. That way parties would become wonderful improv shows were all the guests were expected to 'perform' for their supper. Ah, if only our own Halloween parties were more like that.          

Source: The Met Museum             

Dress of the Week: Edwardian Bathing Suit

The weather was rather warm the other day and I had the pleasure of going to the beach and enjoy some sea bathing. It was pleasantly refreshing and the only thing I could have wished for was this striped blue, white and red bathing suit.

Bathing suit, front, 1900-1910, British. Met Museum  

Bathing suit, back, 1900-1910, British. Met Museum 

Date: 1900–1910
Culture: British
Medium: cotton
Dimensions: Length at CB (a): 37 in. (94 cm) Length (b): 31 1/2 in. (80 cm) Length (c): 27 3/4 in. (70.5 cm)
Credit Line: Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1977

Sea bathing for its therapeutic and medicinal value was around since the 17th century, but became really popular in the 18th century. The history of the bathing suit is very long, and I will leave it for another post. Suffice it to say that by the 20th century the beachwear became less cumbersome, more playful and and lighter. However, modesty while swimming was still on everyone's mind and modern bikinis and onepiece suits were still a long way away. 

This pretty cotton number looks very lightweight and has a playful sailor motif going for it, which was common for swim suits and beachwear of the time. It consist of a short tunic-like dress with a stylized sailor collar and a belt and a pair of bloomers gathered just below the knee. The blue, white and red color scheme make it really fun. While swimming in this would be difficult and it may get heavy and deformed when wet, this could be a pretty nice outfit if all you want to do is lounge around on the beach, stroll along the shore and generally look adorable.    

Source: Met Museum

Dress of the Week: Tea Gown

It is rather unfortunate, but I got sick this week, which confined me to my house for the time being. But when a lady feels like she has to lounge around the house for a while, she can still do it in style if she has the right gown to wear.

Tea Gown, 1885, Britain, Met Museum 

Tea Gown, 1885, Britain, side view, Met Museum

Tea Gown, 1885, Britain, back view Met Museum

Date: 1885
Culture: British
Medium: silk
Dimensions: Length at CB: 57 1/2 in. (146.1 cm)

This elegant peach-colored silk tea gown is perfect for a lazy afternoon at home. It reminds me very much of the light Chemise a la Reine gowns popular in the late 18th century. But most of all I love the little daisy details embroidered on the skirt and along the lace. It's such a whimsical barely-there element.

Tea gowns were usually made out of light fabrics and were much less restrictive than the formal fashions of the day. A 'tea gown' is somewhat of a misnomer. It seems to imply that you would wear this dress to tea. But, as a matter of fact, these dresses were meant for at-home wear only. While appropriate for morning sitting rooms and breakfasts with the family and maybe a few bosom friends, no lady would be seen in one of these by the wider public.      

Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Dress of the Week: Blue Robe à l'Anglaise

This week I was looking for something warm, but airy and just a little coquettish. And nothing suits my mood better than this blue silk robe à l'anglaise.

Robe à l'Anglaise, 1770s, British, Met Museum

Robe à l'Anglaise, back, 1770s, British, Met Museum

Robe à l'Anglaise, back detail, 1770s, British, Met Museum

Dress (Robe à l'Anglaise)
Date: 1770–75
Culture: British
Medium: silk, metal
Dimensions: Length at CB: 53 in. (134.6 cm)

The robe à l'anglaise became very popular between 1720 and 1780. It was inspired by English fashions, especially tailoring that was catching on as the epitome of good taste. The funnel-shaped bust ends with a large rectangular skirt, with the fabric beautifully embroidered with metal thread. The skirt is open in the front and is just begging for a lovely whitework underskirt. I really love the color. As I am planning to take a little boat trip this weekend, this blue would match the sky and the sea perfectly. All I can wish for now is fair weather.

Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art