Red Cloaks in Regency England

Color coordination on point,  Harriet and Emma. Photo via Focus Features

One of the very fun costuming choices made by Alexandra Byrne for the new EMMA. (2020) is the matching red cloaks worn by the pupils from Mrs Goddard's school. Emma's new BFF, Harriet Smith wears just such a red cloak. 

The red cloaks and bonnets seem to strike some as a reference to the similar uniforms in Handmaid's Tale. Autumn de Wilde does not shy away from this comparison, but states that: 

"[Regency] schoolgirls would have worn that type of bonnet and those capes. It's an identifier of Harriet's class position." [Fashionista]

Hazards of walking, Diana Sperling, 

Woolen red cloaks were practical attire for working class women and for country wear. Such a cloak was cut on a bias and made of closely woven wool, the hem left raw. Due to their simple construction, they could be sold ready-made, and were, consequently, more affordable than more tailored spencers or pelisses.    

Thomas Rowlandson, 1811, A Midwife Going to a Labour

Match Woman, John Dempsey, 1824, Woolwich

These cloaks were sometimes called the "cardinal" becasue of the red color.

Cape, last third 18th century, American or European, The MET 

The look may be familiar to all of you Jane Austen film buffs out there. Lydia and Kitty wear them in the 1995 adaptation of Pride and Prejudice (costumes by Dinah Collin). The bright color expresses their loud and brash personalities. In contrast, Elizabeth's spencer is mustard, to make her stand out, but seem more grounded, while Jane is in angelic blue and poor Mary is barely visible in her brown cloak.     

While these were sensible garments, red cloaks did make their way into fashion plates of the period.

Walking dress from La Belle Assemblée (Mar 1811)

"...Cassimere crimson mantle, confined close to the back, lined with purple silk, embroidered round the neck, cape, and sides with purple fancy border; a deep cape falling from the shoulders, sloping to a narrow point, with tassels. A crimson velvet bonnet, turban front and trimmed with purple to correspond...” 

- La Belle Assemblée, 1811 

This very fashionable lady wears a "mantle" instead of a "cloak". It seems that these cloaks remained a fashionable part of the walking dress and could be occasionally seen with evening dresses. 

Fashion plate, 1829, France via V&A Museum

Red accents appear in many of the fashion plates of the time, though mostly this comes in the form of a shawl rather than a cloak.

Harriet Smith's simple red cloak signifies her class position. She is not as wealthy as Emma and cannot afford fitted winter garments. At the same time, it shows her simplicity, as she takes her walks    

SOURCES: 

- Dress in the Age of Jane Austen: Regency Fashion, by Hilary Davidson 

  Yale University Press (November 12, 2019)

- Metropolitan Museum of Art

Medieval Fair at Hämeenlinna

I'm back! Sorry for neglecting my blog, but this summer turned out to be very busy: trips, events, crafts and school took over my life. But now I'm back with a new post on something recent and very fun indeed.

Last weekend I went to Häme Medieval Faire, which is a Medieval festival held at the Hämeenlinna's castle. Like all such occasions this one had food, mock fights, vendors selling everything a history enthusiast could ever want and lots and lots of rain and dirt (this is Finland in August, so that's to be expected), which made it feel very authentic.

A pig roasted on a spit may look horrible, but tastes great.

Barbarians arrived to show us some impressive horseback rindding stunts.

Vikings fought Saxons.

Saxons won.

Though most of them got killed.

I'm not at all an expert on medieval dress, so the fashion show was a real eye opener.

A little child was put in charge of a catapult.

My friends and I went dressed up, though we sacrificed historical accuracy for the sake of comfort and fun.

I have some great photos from the Times & Epochs festival in Moscow, but I still need to sort through them. So that's for another post.  

DIY: Quick and Easy Edwardian Costume

There is a Murder Mystery event at my local library this weekend, which means we will sit in a dark room solving a ghastly murder with the help of Sherlock Holmes. Since I'm one of the hosts, I had to put together a quick and simple Edwardian-looking costume for this event.

With no time for sewing and no budget to buy/rent anything from the costume store, I just raided my closet and picked out a few items that could  pass for 'Edwardian'. Behold, the result:

Skirt-SisterS point--Blouse-thrifted, UFF--Belt-H&M--Cameo-VeroModa--Boots-Vagabond--Hat-H&M

Now, mind you, this is hardly 'authentic' Edwardian attire. But since my modest goal was to attempt a  recreation of a look that seems vaguely Edwardian, I think I managed pretty well.

Mr. & Mrs. Isaac Newton Phelps-Stokes, John Singer Sargent, 1897 

If you need a quick and easy costume for an event, Edwardian, or more specifically the Gibson Girl, is fairly easy to put together. You probably already have most of these things in your closet or could find them at your local thrift store.

Portrait of  the Spencer sisters, 1902

Look for a long A-line skirt and a button-up blouse, preferably white and frilly. Extra points if you can find one with leg o'mutton sleeves. A belt ties the whole look together (and hides the elastic band on your skirt). A hat and some simple jewellery like a string of pearls or a cameo would do nicely.

Of course, such a loose interpretation would greatly offend historical costumers, but if you just want a simple Halloween costume for Anne of the Green Gables, you can get away with cutting a few corners.  

Video from the Edwardian Ball

This Mark Day's short video of the Edwardian Ball in San Francisco.



Though it seems more like a mash-up of styles, with steam punk being the most prominent, rather than straight up Edwardian, it still looks absolutely amazing. If there is a place that I'd like to be right now, that is it!

Halloween Masquarade with a Theater Group

For my theater group, Halloween is serious business. It is by far the most important social event of the season and everyone puts a lot of thought and effort into their costume for the annual Halloween Masquerade.

What makes it so wonderful is that since we are all creative, theater-loving people, the costumes were glorious.

Spooky Jack-o'-lantern is presiding over the bash  

Joker was our DJ. Thanks to Nolan we can all have a cool and easy H
alloween costume

Sometimes you watch the food. Sometimes the food watches you

Some nice witches donated a few fingers for our party

There seems to be blood on those candles

Punk Blue Fairy was there. Threatened to turn me into a real girl

Punk Tinker Bell and Punk Peter Pan. A lot of 'punk' at this party

A creepy marionette doll

Ophelia, but not the one from the play. This is the one from a painting by Arthur Hughes  

And Arthur Hughes, too. He was, surprise, Ophelia's date

A Bearded Lady. I suspect that beard used to belong to Jack Sparrow  

And the winner of the best costume - EdwardScissorhands!

I'm very proud of Edward, since I was the one who did the makeup

Happy Halloween!

Photography by Nihan Tanışer and Ritabrata Dutta

Paul Poiret's Fancy Dress Costumes

My friends and I had our Halloween masquerade on Saturday. And while I am waiting for some pictures to come my way so I could share them here, let me direct your attention to some more vintage Halloween ideas.    

If you still don't know what to be this Halloween, let Paul Poiret inspire you with his amazing fancy dresses. Some say that Paul Poiret was the first fashion designer, though I believe that distinction should go to Rose Bertin, milliner to Marie Antoinette and the “Minister of Fashion”. Poiret, though not the first fashion designer, was certainly an artist of fashion. Just look at some of these breathtaking costumes he designed.

 'Oriental' Costume

Oriental fancy dress costume, Paul Poiret, 1911. Source: Met Museum

This fancy dress ensemble was created for Poiret's 1002nd Night party in 1911. I absolute love the silhouette and the gems.

'Elizabethan' Costume

Elizabethan fancy dress costume, Paul Poiret, 1910-1920. Source: Met Museum

The gown is clearly inspired by Queen Elizabeth fashions, yet it does not strive for absolute historical accuracy. It is cream colored silk, trimmed and embroidered with metallic thread and synthetic gems.  

'Fountain' Costume

Fountain fancy dress costume, Paul Poiret, 1920s  

And last but not least, my favorite of all Poiret's fancy dresses. This Fountain costume was worn by Marchesa Luisa Casati, an Italian heiress and, by her own account, 'a living work of art'. The dress is so simple in its eccentricity. I love the elaborate two-storey hat and strings of large beads streaming down the body and the hoop skirt.

Of these three, which one would you wear to a Halloween party?  

Dress of the Week: Carousel Fancy Dress

Sometimes you come across a costume so brilliant, so fabulous, so spectacular that you immediately fall in love with it and decide to elope to Gretna Green. Like today's Dress of the Week, the unbelievably intricate Carousel Fancy Dress

If nothing else, this dress would get first prize for most effort. Thecostume, probably from early 20th century, has the lady dressed in a skirt with horses going around the hem and an organ just above it. The hem of the skirt is adorned with frills and attached to a very high waist with bejeweled strings. The huge hat with lanterns and large beads represents the roof of the carousel.

If you think that this costume looks strangely familiar, you are not wrong. You may be thinking of Manish Arora carousel dress worn by the ever whimsical Kety Perry.

While I don't have the time to construct anything so elaborate for Halloween this year, I will certainly look into for our next costume party.

DIY: How to Make an Elizabethan Ruff

This is it! The week before the big Halloween Party. Which means I must finish my costume forthwith.

And I am in need of one very specific accessory - an Elizabethan ruff collar. These collars look quite beautiful and are surprisingly easy make. All you need is some patience and a whole lot of ribbon.     

First things first, you will need a good tutorial. After looking over countless Elizabethan ruff how-tos, I have found this great video

Materials:
- Ribbon
- Needle and thread
- Scissors
- Ruler or measuring tape
- Pencil
- Matches

Start with the ribbon. I used about 5 meters of 4 cm wide satin ribbon. It looks quite nice, but it's very slippery when you work with it, and if you want a wider collar it may droop a little. If you prefer something more solid, a grosgrain ribbon would probably be better.



Make sure you have enough thread. If you run out in the middle of the sewing project, it's going to be a real pain to tie it off and add another one. When you start sewing the dots together, keep in mind that the ribbon will bunch up. Be very careful and make sure that you do not  miss any pleats. Once you miss one, it's almost impossible to go back.

Adding the neckband ribbon was a very long and painful process. But I'm very happy with how it turned out. I think I'll start making these ruff collars for fun and profit.

 

Sorry about the lighting. I took these pictures in the dead of the night.  

Next week I'll have a longer post about the party and my costume. Stay tuned!