Dress of the Week: Candy Stripe Jacket

The weather is sunny and summery, but it's still very cold. So I thought a lady, such as myself, needs something bright and fun, but still warm enough to avoid early summer head colds.

Jacket, 1790, France, Kyoto Costume Institute

This is a French jacket from 1790s made of red and white striped plain silk with silver-colored buttons and an over-sized fold-back collar with scalloped edges. The metal buttons in two rows down the front make for a great accent. I also like the little fichu provided for warmth and modesty and the black ribbon around the throat.

By the end of 1770s, English country living was in vogue not only in England, but also in France, which led to more simplified and practical fashions. "Redingotes," or riding coat, worn by men, greatly influenced women's style and brought about pretty fitted jackets such as this one.

American Duchess has recreated this lovely jacket and it looks brilliant!

Source: Kyoto Costume Institute

Pineapple Bag: Past and Present

Some say that fashion is cyclical. Those who say that were probably shopping at H&M recently. As I was walking along the aisles of brightly-colored dresses and sunhats, I came across this fun little pineapple bag. "Hmm, this looks familiar," thought I.

And then it hit me! The resemblance is uncanny.

©The Kyoto Costume Institute

This three-dimensional knitted pineapple bag is called a 'reticule' and is one of the treasures of the Kyoto Costume Institute. In the late 18th - early 19th century, when women surrendered their voluminous skirts for the new neoclassical style, they also had to give up their pockets, and so a tiny bag for daily necessities was created. This pineapple reticule is made with yellow and green silk and decorated with silver beads and tassels. You can see a more detailed image here.

There was a certain taste for the exotic in the early 19th century, in part due to the influence of Joséphine Bonaparte, who was from the Island of Martinique, in part due to increasing interest in Egypt, Greece and Rome. And I feel like this zany bag was quite the hit of the season.

Now, if you're handy with knitting needles, you can make your own version of this bag thanks to knitter and blogger Isabel Gancedo who create very detailed instructions for it.

As for me, I will have to be content with the H&M version. Note to self, must learn to knit.    

Dress of the Week: Day Dress

Would you believe it, it's nearly the end of May and the it's finally warm? It was almost +20C yesterday. (I live in the north) This heatwave is making me think summery thoughts and yearn for something floral and pretty.

Day Gown, France, 1897,  FIDM

Day Gown
Paris, France, c. 1897
P. Barroin, Designer
Printed dotted Swiss, silk chiffon, silk taffeta & cotton braid
Gift of Jane Riggs & Lynelle Doll
2010.1098.3A-C

This dress is absolutely fabulous and perfect for summer walks. There are layers upon layers of pattern, which I think is really fun. The straw hat with a black veil is so cute. I've been looking for something like that for a while. Though I find the slit down the middle of the bodice a little unnerving. I would love to wear something like this.            

Source: FIDM Museum 

Lucy Worsley Talks Regency Politics

The third and last part of Elegance and Decadence presented by Lucy Worsley is about the highs and the lows of the political and social environment of the Regency. It was a time of great technological breakthroughs (the steam engine) and, at the same time, an age of great social injustice (land enclosure).



As I watched this last part of the series about an era that is so often associated with elegance, cottages and Jane Austen, I thought how little things have change. Here we have a world trying to come to terms with mindboggling technological advancement; the rich getting richer and the poor getting poorer; some people inciting violence, others trying to bring about peaceful reform. It's not all that different from our own age, really.

Dress of the Week: Boué Soeurs Dress

This week I had to travel in time to the 20th century to get a dress. It so happens that today is my friend's wedding. And she decided to give it an Art Deco/1920s look. The guests are encouraged to dress appropriately. And while I already have a lovely midnight blue flapper dress, I could not resist looking at some lovely gowns from the past.

After careful deliberation I chose this Boué Soeurs evening dress.

Evening dress, 1920s, Met Museum

Evening dress, 1920s, back, Met Museum

Date: 1920–25
Country: French
Medium: cotton, linen, silk, metallic thread
Dimensions: Length at CB: 44 1/2 in. (113 cm)
Credit Line: Bequest of Sally Fenlon-Young, 1979

Some may say that this dress is too busy, but I love it. The embroidered cotton pinafore is so darling. And the bow with ribbon flowers on the side is the bee's knees. I am rather partial to lace, whitework and ribbons.

While 1920s are usually associated with flapper style -  lots of beads and fringes - this dress has a very Belle Époque vibe. I feel like even back in the 1920s it probably looked almost vintage.

Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art