Dress of the Week: Blue Summer Dress

I haven't done a Dress of the Week post for a long, long while. And since May is upon us and I've been scouting out some historical fashions to incorporate into my summer wardrobe, here is a summer dress from 1905 that I long to wear for a May Day picnic.

Summer dress, 1905, UK. Source: Victoria & Albert Museum 

Place of origin: Great Britain, UK
Date: 1905
Materials and Techniques: Printed striped cotton, with a yoke neck of tucked Broderie Anglaise frills and pin-tucked collar with a tape lace frill; bodice lined with white cotton and fastened with original hooks, eyes and loops; pleated belt has five bones and a hook and eye fastening concealed by a rosette
Credit Line: Worn by Miss Heather Firbank

This pretty blue and white number belonged to the fashionable Miss Heather Firbank (1888-1954),  daughter of the MP Sir Thomas Firbank and sister of the writer Ronald Firbank.

"[Heather Firbank] had beauty, and she adorned it with exquisite clothes of a heather colour to complement her name" - Miriam J. Benkovitz, Ronald Firbank: A Biography (1970)

It's very rare for dresses to survive the test of time; and when they do survive, it's often due to some unusual circumstances. In case of Miss Firbank, who acquired her wardrobe from the leading houses of the time, in 1921 her expensive clothes were packed into trunks and put in storage for 35 years. Why did she decide to pack away her entire collection of garments instead of altering and updating or reselling them is beyond my knowledge, but in 1960 Victoria and Albert Museum got their hands on the lot, which included over 100 pieces of clothes and accessories. That's quite a treasure. The collection is a glimpse into the past showing the tastes and styles of a wealthy lady between 1905 and 1920.

Summer dress, back, 1905, UK. Source: Victoria & Albert Museum 

The skirt consists of four 28-inch pieces pleated onto a narrow waistband. The bodice is pouched in the front and is a little bloused at the back. The yoke around the neck is composed of  Broderie Anglaise frills and a pin-tucked cotton infill, with a high-boned pin-tucked collar finished with a tape lace frill. The outfit is accessorized with a dainty straw hat with a blue ribbon around it and a lovely parasol. Blue and white dresses such as this one were very popular during the early 1900s for boating and seaside wear.

Since I do own a parasol and a similar straw hat (all it needs is a ribbon), I just need to find a blue dress with lace to recreate this look.

Source: Victoria and Albert Museum 

More about Heather Firbank and her wardrobe

Dress of the Week: Striped Taffeta Day Dress

Oh, how I long for something bold and whimsical to wear during the day! Fortunately, this striped taffeta day dress is perfect for it.  

Day dress, 1820. Source: The Kyoto Costume Institute

Date: 1820
Country: Unknown
Medium: Silk taffeta

The early 19th century was a blur of white muslin imitating Ancient Greek statues and the classical silhouette, but by 1812 color and trimming were coming back in vogue. Gothic, Tudor and Elizabethan elements were making their mark on day and evening fashions. The waists were still high, but the skirts were getting wider and decorations on the hem and bodice were abundant.        

With this lovely brown and blue striped silk taffeta gown the Gothic influences can be seen in puffy sleeves and the cording and puff decorations on the bodice as well as the flounces along the hem of the skirt. Despite its very bold choice of colors (blue and brown stripes) and silk taffeta fabric, it is not an evening gown. It is a day dress, which means that it was an appropriate outfit for informal occasions before dinnertime. It could be worn around the house or while visiting close friends and neighbours. 

Dress of the Week: Carousel Fancy Dress

Sometimes you come across a costume so brilliant, so fabulous, so spectacular that you immediately fall in love with it and decide to elope to Gretna Green. Like today's Dress of the Week, the unbelievably intricate Carousel Fancy Dress

If nothing else, this dress would get first prize for most effort. Thecostume, probably from early 20th century, has the lady dressed in a skirt with horses going around the hem and an organ just above it. The hem of the skirt is adorned with frills and attached to a very high waist with bejeweled strings. The huge hat with lanterns and large beads represents the roof of the carousel.

If you think that this costume looks strangely familiar, you are not wrong. You may be thinking of Manish Arora carousel dress worn by the ever whimsical Kety Perry.

While I don't have the time to construct anything so elaborate for Halloween this year, I will certainly look into for our next costume party.

Dresss of the Week: Iphigenia Fancy Dress

Today Dress of the Weeks takes a turn for the scandalous. Do you dare emulate the rakish Elizabeth Chudleigh, Duchess of Kingston, who dressed as Iphigenia ready for the sacrifice?

Elizabeth Chudleigh as Iphigenia, 1740

In 1740 Elizabeth Chudleigh appeared at a private Subscription Masquerade at the King’s Theatre wearing a costume of Iphigenia. Though no accurate description of a costume exists, and all subsequent artistic representations of it are nothing more that fanciful imaginings, it is said that she outraged the guests by being practically naked.

King George II, on the other hand, liked the costume very much. On seeing the lady he asked to touch her exposed breast, to which Lizzy replied, with a coy smile, I should imagine, that she can put his hand on a far softer place. And she placed the King's hand on his own head. What a gal!

So this year, forget about the old and tired sexy nurses, sexy kittens and sexy vampires, and, instead, go as Iphigenia ready for the sacrifice. 

Dress of the Week: Bat Fancy Dress

While masked balls were somewhat stigmatized during the Georgian era, by the time Victorians came about, fancy dress balls were all the rage. And fashion publications of the time had plenty of creative and sometimes bizarre costume ideas. And since I love Batman this Victorian Bat fancy dress is especially appealing to me.

Bat costume, La mode illustrée, Journal de la famille, 1887

Bat fancy dress based on 1887 fashion plate

This whimsical costume consists of a flounced skirt with crinoline, polonaise, corset bodice, opera gloves and a fichu with a cape shaped like bat wings attached. Two little bats perch on the shoes and a slightly larger bat is spread over the bosom. Add a cute bat-hat and the costume is complete. For me it's the hat that makes this costume absolutely worth the effort. And who can resist coming to a Halloween party dressed as a Victorian Batgirl?

The best part, you can actually buy a pattern for this outfit! Unfortunately  the bat-hat is not included. And Sewing to Distraction actually recreated this look last year. Check out her step-by-step journey into Victorian fancy dress.     

Dress of the Week: Court Dress

It is Friday night and I'm all dressed up and nowhere to go. And nothing says 'party' quite like an early-Victorian silk court dress.

Court dress, 1828, Germany. Source: Met Museum

Court dress, back, 1828, Germany. Source: Met Museum

Court dress,  bodice detail, 1828, Germany. Source: Met Museum 

Court dress, skirt detail, 1828, Germany. Source: Met Museum 

Date: 1828
Culture: German (probably)
Medium: silk, metal
Dimensions: Length at CB: 52 in. (132.1 cm) 

As Regency fashion for antiquity-inspired simple white garments began to wane, the early-Victorians developed a taste for lower waists, more bell-shaped skirts and much poofier sleeves, which ultimately resulted in leg o'mutton sleeve fashion, which I am sure people in the early 20th century regarded with as much horror as we do our own '90s.

While I do not much care for early-Victorian style (I think those huge sleeves make one's head look disproportionately tiny), I adore the metal embroidery on the skirt, sleeves and bodice. It makes me think of a dress of a fairy tale princess. It would be great fun to cosplay as Snow White in this lovely gown.

Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art 

Dress of the Week: Silk Pelisse

We've been having some rather cold and rainy days this week, so I feel obliged to dig into my closet and bring out some warmer clothes. Likes this pretty silk pelisse, for instance.

Pelisse, silk, England, 1820. Source: Victoria & Albert Museum  

Place: England
Date: 1820
Artist/maker: Unknown
Materials and Techniques: Silk, lined with silk and cotton, hand-sewn

This beautiful piece of outwear is called a pelisse robe. It is essentially a dress in a style of a coat, which was often worn for walking or paying visits. Unlike most dresses of the time, pelisse robe opens in the front (like a coat would) and has a wide collar. By the 1820s the waists went up pretty high, and the silhouette has changed from what was popular at the beginning of the 19th century. Fashionable ladies adopted a more A-line shape. In this particular pelisse, the hem is padded to accentuate that shape.    

The most remarkable thing about the gown is that what appears to be embroidery on the bodice, sleeves and along the skirt is actually very elaborate piping (embellishment technique that involves thin rolls of fabric) arranged in a flower pattern. The sleeves are decorated with short puffed oversleeves of stepped bands, faced and lined with satin, and wristbands that fasten with a button. The skirt is slightly gored with a gathering at the back. The collar is stiffened and has a little vent at the back, trimmed with a tassel. The robe is lined with blue silk and fastens with loops and concealed buttons.

This is by far one of the prettiest walking dresses I have seen. The piping makes for gorgeous decorative element and the coffee and cream colored silk is simply divine. I shall also note that the A-shap skirt is much more flattering than the fashions of the preceding and has not yet passed into the over-trimmed nightmare of Victoriana. My only concern would be ruining this lovely silk pelisse in mud and rain of early September.   

Do you have a favorite walking dress? Please share!

Source: Victoria & Albert Museum   

Dress of the Week: Red Silk Dress

A red dress is not for the fainthearted, not for the wallflowers. All shades of crimson and scarlet are made for the bold and the brazen. This is why this gorgeous silk gown has captured my heart.

Dress, silk, Europe or America, 1845-49. Source: The Met Museum

Dress, silk, back, Europe or America, 1845-49. Source: The Met Museum

Dress, silk, detail, Europe or America, 1845-49. Source: The Met Museum

Date: 1845–49 Country: American or European
Medium: silk, velvet? 

There is something almost melancholic about the simplicity and the subtle elegance of this dress. It has very simple trimmings - just a bit of velvet around the sleeves and down the bodice. The heaviness of fabric and the gorgeous shade of red give it an autumnal feel. It makes me think of the wonderful poem by Dorothy Parker.

The Red Dress

I always saw, I always said
If I were grown and free,
I’d have a gown of reddest red
As fine as you could see,

To wear out walking, sleek and slow,
Upon a Summer day,
And there’d be one to see me so
And flip the world away.

And he would be a gallant one,
With stars behind his eyes,
And hair like metal in the sun,
And lips too warm for lies.

I always saw us, gay and good,
High honored in the town.
Now I am grown to womanhood….
I have the silly gown.

Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art

Dress of the Week: A Midsummer Night's Dream Costume

Do you like theater? I adore it! And after my theater group had successfully performed a production of Shakespeare in the Park, my head has been full of theatrical costumes. So, this week we shall look at this lovely frock worn by Helena of A Midsummer Night's Dream in 1914.

Theater Costume, 1914, British. Source: Victoria & Albert Museum 

Theater Costume, back, 1914, British. Source: Victoria & Albert Museum 

Date: 1914
Artist: Norman Wilkinson
Materials: Crêpe-de-chine, fringe and beads
Techniques: Sewing; Macrame

The dress was made by Norman Wilkinson for director Harley Granville Barker who earned himself a place in theater history books for his creative approach to stage and costume design. Unlike his contemporaries who tried to recreate historical costumes and 'realistic' sets, Barker went for highly stylized scenery and costumes that suggested period dress but were influenced by the fashion trends of the time.

Barker lucked out with his production of A Midsummer Night's Dream since the 1910s were a time of Empire Revivalism with its linear silhouette and interest in ancient Greek and Roman styles. This was perfect for a play set in the woods near Athens.

The dress above was made for Lillah McCarthy who played Helena and was worn by her for the final scene of the play. It is white crêpe-de-chine with pink stenciled flowers that give it a more folksy feel. The outfit was was worn with mauve shoes and red beads and a wreath of flowers decorating Helena's hair. I love how this dress imitates Grecian style yet still remain very 1910. The stenciled flowers add a bit more color and make it very fun.  

Source: Victoria & Albert Museum 

Dress of the Day: Blue Tartan Dress

This fashionable young lady (i.e. me) is in Scotland and must choose her attire carefully to suit her surroundings. And what can be better suited to the green vastness and natural beauty of Scotland than this gorgeous blue tartan dress?    

Dress, 1845, England. Source: Victoria & Albert Museum  

Date: 1845
Country: United Kingdom
Materials: Silk satin, trimmed with velvet ribbon, lined with linen and silk, hand-sewn
Credit Line: Given by Lady Lindsey

The dress is blue tratan silk satin trimmed with black velvet bows that are decorated with agate stud buttons. The bodice is piped, lined with cotton and boned. The long tights sleeves have open epaulette and the skirt is lined with yellow and white silk. As the fashion of the time dictated, the gown has a high, round neck and a long, pointed waistline.

Did you know that tartan was banned by an Act of Parliament in 1746? The British government was not particularly happy with the unruly Scots and wanted to keep them in check by prohibiting traditional dress such as tartan and kilts. The kilt was still allowed as part of the military dress, though. But when the law was repealed forty years later everyone rushed to stock up on their plaids. And by the 1840s, tartan fabrics like this one were all the rage. The fad was  fueled by Walter Scott's exciting, brooding adventure novels and Queen Victoria's new royal residence at Balmoral, Scotland.

I fully intend to find myself a castle and sit by a window reading Ivanhoe in this beautiful blue tartan.    

Source: Victoria & Albert Museum

Dress of the Day: Elizabethan Costume

My theater group is putting on a production of Shakespeare in the Park, so this week I felt like a bit of whimsical costuming is in order. And since in Shakespearean theater all actors, regardless of the play's period, wore contemporary dress, here is a lovely Elizabethan costume.

Fancy Dress,  1890–1909, French. Source: Met Museum 

Fancy Dress, back, 1890–1909, French. Source: Met Museum 

Fancy Dress,  detail, 1890–1909, French. Source: Met Museum 

Date: 1890–1909
Culture: French
Medium: silk, metal
Dimensions: Length (a): 18 in. (45.7 cm) Length (b): 74 in. (188 cm)
Credit Line: Gift of Orme Wilson and R. Thornton Wilson, in memory of their mother, Mrs. Caroline Schermerhorn Astor Wilson

Sadly, this is not a real Elizabethan dress. Historical clothes is very difficult to find and preserve since they age, wear out, lose color and are altered by their owners. There are very few real pieces left from 16th to17th century. We must content ourselves with imitations, reconstructions, and of course, wonderful peices created in other periods for fancy dress balls and masquerades.

This is a beautiful dark plum silk velvet gown decorated with faux pearls and embroidered with gold metallic thread. I especially love the lines of pearls sewn along the sleeves. The dress follows the late 19th century silhouette, but borrows elements from Elizabethan gowns, like the wide sleeves and the ruff collar. Costume balls were all the rage at the end of the 19th century. They were not just fun, but also educational. Guests were encouraged not only to research dressmaking of their character's time period, but also learn as much about the character as they could and portray him or her as accurately as possible. That way parties would become wonderful improv shows were all the guests were expected to 'perform' for their supper. Ah, if only our own Halloween parties were more like that.          

Source: The Met Museum             

Dress of the Week: Edwardian Bathing Suit

The weather was rather warm the other day and I had the pleasure of going to the beach and enjoy some sea bathing. It was pleasantly refreshing and the only thing I could have wished for was this striped blue, white and red bathing suit.

Bathing suit, front, 1900-1910, British. Met Museum  

Bathing suit, back, 1900-1910, British. Met Museum 

Date: 1900–1910
Culture: British
Medium: cotton
Dimensions: Length at CB (a): 37 in. (94 cm) Length (b): 31 1/2 in. (80 cm) Length (c): 27 3/4 in. (70.5 cm)
Credit Line: Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1977

Sea bathing for its therapeutic and medicinal value was around since the 17th century, but became really popular in the 18th century. The history of the bathing suit is very long, and I will leave it for another post. Suffice it to say that by the 20th century the beachwear became less cumbersome, more playful and and lighter. However, modesty while swimming was still on everyone's mind and modern bikinis and onepiece suits were still a long way away. 

This pretty cotton number looks very lightweight and has a playful sailor motif going for it, which was common for swim suits and beachwear of the time. It consist of a short tunic-like dress with a stylized sailor collar and a belt and a pair of bloomers gathered just below the knee. The blue, white and red color scheme make it really fun. While swimming in this would be difficult and it may get heavy and deformed when wet, this could be a pretty nice outfit if all you want to do is lounge around on the beach, stroll along the shore and generally look adorable.    

Source: Met Museum

Dress of the Week: Catherine II's Uniform Dress

My recent trip to Russia has turned my head a little. I can't help but browse The Hermitage Museum collection in search of pretty treasures. And so today's Dress of the Week is Catherine the Great's uniform gown.  

Catherine was not a fashionista, but she was a clever woman and a pretty sensible monarch. Even before she came to the throne, she was on very friendly terms with the army. As an Empress, she had to reaffirm this connection through dress. She owned quite a few uniform dresses, many of which are now in the collection of the Hermitage Museum.         

The Hermitage archive, unfortunately, does not give any details about this 1789 gown modeled after the uniform of the Life-Guards Cavalry Regiment. It seems to be a heavy fabric dress similar to a redingote with large buttons and gold trimmings and a light red or pink petticoat. The dress looks so very comfy for a stroll in the parks of Tsarskoye Selo or rallying the troops when you're planning to deposit and assassinate your husband. A very versatile gown.     

Dress of the Week: Blue Carriage Dress

As a young lady of the world, I enjoy travel. But a journey could be arduous if one doesn't have the the right gown. Fortunately for me, today's Dress of the Week is perfect for my purposes.

Carriage Dress, Ackermann's Repository, June 1823

While this lady chose to travel by carriage, I will be taking a train. Still, one cannot go wrong with a comfortable blue dress with caped shoulders and frogging down the front. A pretty little gauze cap will help protect one's hair. And to avoid looking too dowdy, the cap can be decorated with flowers. And, of course, a quizzing glass is not just an accessory, it's a necessity. How else am I to admire the beautiful countryside swishing by. 

Dress of the Week: Princess Charlotte’s Russian Dress

I may have mentioned that I was in Russia recently. This fact has made me slightly obsessed with all things Russian. So it is little wonder that this Dress of the Week is none other than Princess Charlotte’s blue Russian Gown:

Princess Charlotte's "Russian" dress. Museum of London, The Royal Collection.

This gorgeous blue and gold 1917 dress belonged to Princess Charlotte of Wales, daughter of King George IV and Caroline of Brunswick, and is now in the Royal Collection. What's interesting is that Princess Charlotte wears this dress in a number of portraits, including the one below by George Dawe from 1817.  

Princess Charlotte Augusta of Wales, George Dawe, 1817

Strangely enough, I couldn't find any information about the gown itself. It has a very high Empire waste, right under the bust, and is richly embellished with gold ornaments and a tassel around the hem. The color must have faded over the years as the dress appears to be bright blue in paintings as opposed to the pale shade it is now.

I would think that the reason it's called the 'Russian gown' is because it resembles the Russian traditional dress - sarafan. A sarafan is a jumper dress or pinafore which was worn by women and girls of all classes up until Peter the Great's dress reform. After that, only the peasant and the merchant classes wore sarafans. 

Traditional Russian sarafan

A sarafan is a perfect dress for the summer. It's usually made out of cotton and allows you to move freely, unlike all those cumbersome court dresses. And it's also beautifully decorated with embroidery and other embellishments, which makes it the perfect day dress for any lady.

Roman K from over at FolkCostume&Embroidery has a great post about Russian traditional dress.
And if you want to know more about Princess Charlotte's gown, here's an article from Jane Austen's World.  

Dress of the Week: Tea Gown

It is rather unfortunate, but I got sick this week, which confined me to my house for the time being. But when a lady feels like she has to lounge around the house for a while, she can still do it in style if she has the right gown to wear.

Tea Gown, 1885, Britain, Met Museum 

Tea Gown, 1885, Britain, side view, Met Museum

Tea Gown, 1885, Britain, back view Met Museum

Date: 1885
Culture: British
Medium: silk
Dimensions: Length at CB: 57 1/2 in. (146.1 cm)

This elegant peach-colored silk tea gown is perfect for a lazy afternoon at home. It reminds me very much of the light Chemise a la Reine gowns popular in the late 18th century. But most of all I love the little daisy details embroidered on the skirt and along the lace. It's such a whimsical barely-there element.

Tea gowns were usually made out of light fabrics and were much less restrictive than the formal fashions of the day. A 'tea gown' is somewhat of a misnomer. It seems to imply that you would wear this dress to tea. But, as a matter of fact, these dresses were meant for at-home wear only. While appropriate for morning sitting rooms and breakfasts with the family and maybe a few bosom friends, no lady would be seen in one of these by the wider public.      

Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Dress of the Week: Blue Robe à l'Anglaise

This week I was looking for something warm, but airy and just a little coquettish. And nothing suits my mood better than this blue silk robe à l'anglaise.

Robe à l'Anglaise, 1770s, British, Met Museum

Robe à l'Anglaise, back, 1770s, British, Met Museum

Robe à l'Anglaise, back detail, 1770s, British, Met Museum

Dress (Robe à l'Anglaise)
Date: 1770–75
Culture: British
Medium: silk, metal
Dimensions: Length at CB: 53 in. (134.6 cm)

The robe à l'anglaise became very popular between 1720 and 1780. It was inspired by English fashions, especially tailoring that was catching on as the epitome of good taste. The funnel-shaped bust ends with a large rectangular skirt, with the fabric beautifully embroidered with metal thread. The skirt is open in the front and is just begging for a lovely whitework underskirt. I really love the color. As I am planning to take a little boat trip this weekend, this blue would match the sky and the sea perfectly. All I can wish for now is fair weather.

Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art 

Dress of the Week: Candy Stripe Jacket

The weather is sunny and summery, but it's still very cold. So I thought a lady, such as myself, needs something bright and fun, but still warm enough to avoid early summer head colds.

Jacket, 1790, France, Kyoto Costume Institute

This is a French jacket from 1790s made of red and white striped plain silk with silver-colored buttons and an over-sized fold-back collar with scalloped edges. The metal buttons in two rows down the front make for a great accent. I also like the little fichu provided for warmth and modesty and the black ribbon around the throat.

By the end of 1770s, English country living was in vogue not only in England, but also in France, which led to more simplified and practical fashions. "Redingotes," or riding coat, worn by men, greatly influenced women's style and brought about pretty fitted jackets such as this one.

American Duchess has recreated this lovely jacket and it looks brilliant!

Source: Kyoto Costume Institute

Dress of the Week: Day Dress

Would you believe it, it's nearly the end of May and the it's finally warm? It was almost +20C yesterday. (I live in the north) This heatwave is making me think summery thoughts and yearn for something floral and pretty.

Day Gown, France, 1897,  FIDM

Day Gown
Paris, France, c. 1897
P. Barroin, Designer
Printed dotted Swiss, silk chiffon, silk taffeta & cotton braid
Gift of Jane Riggs & Lynelle Doll
2010.1098.3A-C

This dress is absolutely fabulous and perfect for summer walks. There are layers upon layers of pattern, which I think is really fun. The straw hat with a black veil is so cute. I've been looking for something like that for a while. Though I find the slit down the middle of the bodice a little unnerving. I would love to wear something like this.            

Source: FIDM Museum 

Dress of the Week: Boué Soeurs Dress

This week I had to travel in time to the 20th century to get a dress. It so happens that today is my friend's wedding. And she decided to give it an Art Deco/1920s look. The guests are encouraged to dress appropriately. And while I already have a lovely midnight blue flapper dress, I could not resist looking at some lovely gowns from the past.

After careful deliberation I chose this Boué Soeurs evening dress.

Evening dress, 1920s, Met Museum

Evening dress, 1920s, back, Met Museum

Date: 1920–25
Country: French
Medium: cotton, linen, silk, metallic thread
Dimensions: Length at CB: 44 1/2 in. (113 cm)
Credit Line: Bequest of Sally Fenlon-Young, 1979

Some may say that this dress is too busy, but I love it. The embroidered cotton pinafore is so darling. And the bow with ribbon flowers on the side is the bee's knees. I am rather partial to lace, whitework and ribbons.

While 1920s are usually associated with flapper style -  lots of beads and fringes - this dress has a very Belle Époque vibe. I feel like even back in the 1920s it probably looked almost vintage.

Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art